Understanding Zone 4 Climate

In the diverse landscapes of Zone 4, timing is crucial for starting seeds indoors due to the region’s frost dates and relatively short growing season. The last and first frost dates serve as essential bookmarks in the gardener’s calendar, bracketing the period when conditions are suitable for plant growth.

Significance of Frost Dates

Frost dates are vital for gardeners in Zone 4 because they indicate the usual end of the cold weather in early spring and the onset of freezing temperatures in autumn. These dates are not exact but give gardeners a rough guideline for when it’s safe to plant outdoors without the risk of frost damaging tender seedlings. The last frost date typically signals that it’s time to transition from indoor seed starting to planting outdoors.

To find your first and last frost dates you can put in your zip code at the Farmer’s Almanac. It’s generally pretty accurate, but if you live in a micro-climate you may find you’re in-between certain zip codes. I technically have a Westcliffe zip code, but I know from experience that we more accurately fall in between the zones to our south and our north.

Selecting Seeds for Zone 4

When gardening in Zone 4, one must carefully select seeds that will thrive in its cooler climate. Not all seeds are equal; therefore, choice pivots crucially on climate adaptability and maturity time.

Vegetables Suited for Zone 4

Cold-hardy vegetables are ideal for Zone 4 gardens, where early frosts are common. These vegetables can endure cooler temperatures and are perfect to start indoors:

• Broccoli: Initiating broccoli seeds indoors about 6-8 weeks before the last frost date.
• Cabbage: Start cabbage 6-8 weeks before the last anticipated frost to ensure they are ready for transplant.
• Pea: While peas are typically direct-sowed, starting them indoors can give a head start to the growing season.
• Kale: Hardy and nutritious, kale seeds should be started indoors roughly 6 weeks before the last frost.
• Lettuce: A cool season crop; lettuce can be started indoors around 4-6 weeks before transplanting outdoors.
• Spinach: Known for its cold-hardiness, spinach can be started 6-8 weeks prior to the last frost.

For other vegetables like eggplant, tomato, and pepper, which need more heat, use seed warmers or heat mats to ensure germination as they require a longer season to mature. Precisely starting these seeds indoors 8-10 weeks before the final frost date is advisable.

Flowers Suitable for Cold Climates

We grow a large flower garden, even with our short season at 8,000 feet elevation. These rate among my favorite cut flowers:

• Sunflowers: Sunflowers have a pretty quick growing time for the high-impact they offer. We put our out the end of May and do a mix of direct seeding and transplanting.
• Zinnias: Zinnias like heat, but still do well in our sunny, mountain climate. We only get one succession of them, but these cut-and-come-again blooms last all summer long. We transplant them out the first of June.
• Cosmos: Cosmos do great in our zone 4 garden.
• Snapdragons: Snaps love cold weather and can be put out early. They really thrive on our mountain farm.
• Mint: I know it’s not technically a flower, but this is my favorite greenery for bouquets. It grows easily and smells great.
• Dahlias: Dahlias grow well in Colorado and come in all manner of shapes and sizes.
• Peonies: Peonies have an impressively long vase life, and are absolutely stunning. We have 75 plants and are already planning to add more. They are very low maintenance and actually need cold winters to do well.

Planning Your Planting Schedule

For gardeners in Zone 4, timing is crucial for starting seeds indoors. A proper planting schedule ensures that young plants will thrive after transplanting outdoors. Identifying the right dates for sowing seeds can be calculated by understanding the local frost dates and the needs of specific plants. Let’s jump in so you can make a detailed plan around when to start seeds indoors for zone 4.

Creating a Zone 4 Planting Calendar

One begins by identifying the last spring frost date, then works backward to determine the ideal seed-starting times. A seed starting chart typically categorizes plants based on their growth rates and frost tolerance. For Zone 4, where the last frost usually occurs around late April to early May, one might schedule seed starting as follows:

• Hardy vegetables: 10-12 weeks before the last frost date (e.g., onions, leeks, and cabbages)
• Semi-hardy vegetables: 6-8 weeks before the last frost date (e.g., beetroots and carrots)
• Tender vegetables: 4-6 weeks before the last frost date (e.g., tomatoes and peppers)

It is important to adjust the schedule for different varieties as necessary, keeping in mind the specific germination time for each plant. A detailed planting calendar can be crafted using this information, aligning with the unique climate of Zone 4.

Adjusting Planting Times for Microclimates

Even within Zone 4, microclimates can cause significant temperature variations, necessitating adjustments to the planting schedule. Gardeners should evaluate their specific location, looking for factors such as elevation, proximity to water bodies, and urban heat effects, which can shift the safe planting times. For instance, areas near a lake may experience milder temperatures, allowing one to start seeds a week or two earlier. On the other hand, elevated regions might require delaying seeding due to cooler temperatures.

By tailoring the planting schedule to the microclimate, gardeners will promote the most conducive growth environment for their seedlings. Monitoring local weather forecasts and keeping detailed records from year to year will further refine the accuracy of the Zone 4 planting calendar.

Seed Starting Basics

When embarking on indoor seed starting, especially in Zone 4, strict attention to the seed-starting mix, precise germination conditions, and consistent water and warmth management, is crucial for successful germination and healthy seedling development.

Preparing Seed-Starting Mix

The foundation of success in seedling emergence lies in a well-prepared seed-starting mix. It should be sterile to prevent disease, and lightweight to allow tender roots to push through effortlessly. One may opt for a commercially available mix or create a custom blend using equal parts peat, perlite, and vermiculite. Ensuring the mix is moist prior to sowing seeds is essential for supporting germination.

Optimal Conditions for Germination

Each plant species has specific needs, but generally, seedlings require a consistent temperature of 65-75 degrees Fahrenheit for optimal germination. Adequate sunlight or artificial grow lights are also non-negotiable; they should provide seedlings with about 12-16 hours of light each day to avoid leggy growth. Placing the seeds in a warm location with stable temperatures can greatly improve germination success rates.

Managing Water and Warmth

Balancing water and warmth is a delicate task. The seed-starting mix should be kept evenly moist but not waterlogged. Lightly watering with a fine mist helps prevent disrupting the seeds or overly compacting the soil. Providing bottom heat with a heat mat can be particularly beneficial, as it encourages faster germination and vigorous seedling growth. However, precautions should be taken so that seedlings do not overheat or dry out.

Indoor Seed Starting Techniques

Starting seeds indoors can be a strategic approach for Zone 4 gardeners to extend their growing season. Employing proper techniques ensures healthy seedlings ready for transplanting when conditions are ideal.

Using Grow Lights

When starting seeds indoors, consistent light is crucial. Grow lights provide controlled illumination that can prevent seedlings from becoming “leggy,” which is when they stretch toward a light source and become weak. For optimum growth, seedlings require around 14-16 hours of light per day. Position the lights a few inches above the seedlings, adjusting the height as they grow to maintain this ideal distance.

Preventing Common Issues

Starting seeds indoors can lead to issues if conditions aren’t ideal. To prevent problems such as damping off (a fungal disease), provide adequate air circulation around seedlings. Use a small fan on a low setting to improve airflow. Additionally, ensure that the soil is moist but not waterlogged. Matching the right soil moisture to each plant’s requirements is crucial for development.

Spacing and Transplanting Seedlings

It’s important to give seedlings enough space to grow. Start with seeds spaced properly according to their size; typically, small seeds can be sown closer together than large seeds. As the seedlings grow, thin them out to prevent overcrowding. This promotes stronger growth and prepares them for easier transplanting. About a week before transplanting, begin to harden off seedlings by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions to reduce transplant shock.

Transplanting Seedlings Outdoors

When the time comes for gardeners in Zone 4 to move their tender seedlings outdoors, the process must be managed with care to ensure successful transplanting. Each step, from acclimating plants to outdoor conditions to post-transplant care, is crucial for the survival and growth of young plants.

Acclimating Plants to Outdoor Conditions

Before transplanting seedlings outdoors, it is essential that gardeners acclimate, or “harden off,” their plants. This process involves gradually exposing seedlings to outdoor temperatures, sunlight, and wind over a period of 7-10 days. Starting with just a few hours a day, gardeners should slowly increase the plants’ outdoor exposure to toughen their foliage and stem, and reduce transplant shock.

Timing the Transition

The ideal time to transplant seedlings into the garden in Zone 4 is after the last frost date when soil temperatures have consistently warmed. Usually, this occurs from late May into early June. Gardeners should consult their local frost dates and weather forecasts to determine the precise timing. It’s also important to transplant on a cloudy day or in the late afternoon to minimize stress on the plants.

Post-Transplant Care

Once seedlings are in the ground, they require attentive care to establish their roots and begin healthy growth. Gardeners should water the plants thoroughly immediately after transplanting and add a layer of mulch to conserve moisture. For the first week or two, gardeners should keep the soil consistently moist and protect the seedlings from extreme weather, such as heavy rains or strong winds, which might otherwise damage them.

Extending the Growing Season

Extending the growing season in Zone 4 involves strategic planning due to its short and cool climate. By starting seeds indoors, gardeners can gain a substantial head start on the season, overcoming the limitations of early spring frost.

Advantages of Starting Seeds Indoors

In Zone 4, gardeners often face the challenge of a brief growing season. Starting seeds indoors before the last frost-free date can lead to hearty seedlings ready for transplanting as soon as winter recedes. This method not merely advances the harvest time but can also assure better germination rates in the controlled indoor environment.

Using Protective Structures

Utilizing protective structures such as cold frames or hoop houses can also be pivotal in extending the growing season. These structures provide insulation against the cold and can help in:

• Warming the soil in early spring
• Shielding plants from spring frosts
• Maintaining favorable growing conditions for a wider variety of plants

Fall Planting Considerations

For certain crops, fall planting can be advantageous in Zone 4. Selecting cool-season crops that can withstand low temperatures can maximize the harvest. It’s essential to consider:

• The crop’s tolerance to cold
• Timing the planting to allow the plants to establish before winter
• Utilizing techniques such as mulching to protect the plants from early frosts

By taking these steps, gardeners can effectively extend their growing season in Zone 4, ensuring that they can not only start their gardens earlier but also potentially enjoy a longer harvest period into the fall.

Regional Variations and Tips

When starting seeds indoors, gardeners in Zone 4 must adapt their strategies to the region’s unique climate and hardiness zone characteristics. Timing is critical, as Zone 4 has a shorter growing season and requires early planning to ensure a successful harvest.

Local Resources and Gardening Groups

Local resources and gardening groups are invaluable for Zone 4 gardeners seeking region-specific advice. These groups often share insights on the best seed varieties and planting times for the local climate. Gardeners can benefit from:

• Community Workshops: These are often hosted by local garden clubs or extension offices and provide hands-on experience with starting seeds indoors.
• Gardening Groups: Online forums and social media platforms can connect gardeners with peers in their area, allowing for the exchange of tips and resources.

Zone-Specific Gardening Catalogs

Zone 4-specific gardening catalogs can be a gardener’s best guide for selecting seeds. They offer a curated selection of plant varieties that are suitable for the cooler and shorter growing seasons typical of this hardiness zone. When perusing these catalogs, gardeners should:

• Look for “Zone 4 Compatible” labels that denote seeds with a proven track record of success in similar climates.
• Seek out early-start varieties that can withstand a frost and still produce a robust yield, as the last frost date in Zone 4 can be as late as mid-May.

FAQ: When to Start Seeds Indoors for Zone 4

Gardeners in Zone 4 often have questions about the best practices for starting seeds indoors due to the region’s shorter growing season and cooler climate.

What is the ideal soil temperature for germinating seeds indoors in Zone 4?

The ideal soil temperature for germinating most seeds indoors in Zone 4 varies between 65°F and 75°F. Consistent warm temperatures are critical to ensuring successful seed germination.

How can you determine the best time to begin seed-starting indoors for Zone 4b vegetable gardens?

For Zone 4b vegetable gardens, counting back 6 to 8 weeks from the expected last frost date is a reliable way to determine the best time for seed-starting indoors. Using a planting calendar specific to Zone 4b can help with accuracy.

What are the risks of starting seeds indoors too early, and how can it affect plant growth?

Starting seeds indoors too early can lead to leggy plants and root-bound conditions, which may result in poor establishment or reduced vigor when transplanted outdoors.

For Zone 4 flower gardens, what is the recommended schedule for starting seeds indoors?

For Zone 4 flower gardens, seeds of most annuals should be started indoors about 4 to 10 weeks before the last expected frost. Timing varies by species, and it’s essential to check specific requirements for best results.

How can last frost dates in Zone 4a and 4b influence indoor seed-starting timelines?

The last frost dates in Zone 4a and 4b are crucial to determining the indoor seed-starting timelines. Seeds should be started indoors in time to be ready for transplanting after the danger of frost has passed.

What are some essential tips for successfully starting seeds indoors for Zone 4 climates?

For successfully starting seeds indoors in Zone 4, gardeners should use high-quality seed-starting mix, provide adequate light and moisture, and harden off seedlings before planting them outside.

The post When to Start Seeds Indoors for Zone 4? appeared first on Wild Mountain Homestead.

These three steps will help your carrot seed germination rate, and once you have them growing a bit the rest is easy. It’s not rocket science, but these are the three steps that lead to carrots becoming the top seller for use week after week at the farmer’s market (and our kiddo’s favorite snack:).

Enhancing Carrot Seed Germination

1. Optimal Soil Preparation

Carrots thrive in environments that offer rich, loose, and well-draining soil conditions. Digging at least eight inches down, break up the soil and integrate aged compost or slow-release organic fertilizer which provides the necessary nutrients for root development. The more fine and crumbly the soil, the better it is for the elongation and straightness of the carrot roots.

Here’s an effective planting approach to consider:

• Create a furrow about half an inch deep.
• Blend in your organic matter uniformly for consistency in soil structure and nutrients.
• Consider direct sowing two carrot seeds per inch to anticipate some not germinating.

Remember, sowing carrot seeds in moist soil—neither flooded nor parched—lays the groundwork for successful germination.

We do successfully grow carrots straight in the ground, but our easiest, best harvest comes from our raised-bed garden where we grow cut-flower dahlias and garlic. The soil in this area is perfect and incredibly loose. And not having to crawl around to pull carrots is a nice bonus!

2. Consistent Moisture Is Key

To encourage carrot seeds to sprout, it is crucial to maintain a consistently moist soil environment, especially since these seeds can take two to three weeks to emerge. Covering your seedbed with an aged floating row cover can retain soil moisture while also slightly elevating the soil temperature, which can facilitate quicker germination.

Apply these tips to ensure proper soil moisture:

• Use a floating row cover to evenly distribute moisture and protect seeds.
• Water your seeds in the evening to minimize evaporation and maximize absorption.
• If using sandbags or rocks to anchor your row cover, place them strategically to prevent damage to the material and ensure full coverage.

This method not only preserves soil humidity but also adapts to various weather conditions, reducing the reliance on perfect weather patterns for germination.

3. Strategic Timing

The germination of carrot seeds is affected by the timing of your planting. For an optimal growing season, begin sowing in early spring and continue through late summer. Cooler soil temperatures will extend the duration of germination, leading to potential additional weeding.

To make the most of your planting schedule:

• Plan to plant your final successive round of carrots, such as those ideal for containers, approximately eight weeks before the anticipated first frost.
• For fall harvests, calculate the planting date by considering the local frost dates and succession planting guidelines.
• If you’re in a cooler growing zone, start your planting later in the spring, once the threat of frost has subsided.

By adhering to these focused strategies, you can boost your confidence as a gardener and look forward to a bountiful harvest of crisp, sweet carrots straight from your garden.

Common Queries About Carrot Seed Sprouting

Carrot Seed Germination Duration

It typically takes 14 to 21 days for carrot seeds to begin sprouting, but this can vary based on conditions such as soil temperature and moisture.

Preferred Temperature Range for Sprouting

The ideal temperature range for carrot seeds to germinate successfully is between 10°C and 25°C (50°F and 77°F).

Water Germination Method for Carrot Seeds

Yes, you can start carrot seeds in water using the following process:

1. Place seeds on a wet paper towel.
2. Enclose in a plastic bag to maintain moisture.
3. Check frequently and plant them once they’ve sprouted.

Tips for Sowing Carrot Seeds

• Use fine soil, free from stones, directly in the garden bed.
• Sow seeds shallowly, about 0.6 cm (1/4 inch) deep.
• Space seeds or thin seedlings to 2-3 cm (1 inch) apart.

Pre-soaking Carrot Seeds

Soaking seeds overnight in water can speed up germination. Ensure the seeds do not become waterlogged and plant them promptly after soaking.

Challenges with Carrot Seed Germination

Common issues that hinder germination include:

• Inadequate watering: Seeds must stay moist but not waterlogged.
• Improper planting depth: Too deep can prevent sprout emergence.
• Soil conditions: Heavy, compacted, or nutrient-deficient soil can affect growth.

If you’re having issues, take a hard look at these three issues, they are the main culprits for carrot seeds not germinating well.

It may take a season or two to get it right, but don’t give up. Our first two seasons on our mountain farm, we’re fairly disastrous. Not many carrots grew and the ones that did were small. But by focusing on these three tips we started growing large, delicious carrots.

The post Carrot Seed Germination: 3 Tips for Success appeared first on Wild Mountain Homestead.

The simple answer is yes, deer do eat pumpkins. The longer answers is more complicated. What you really want to know is, are your pumpkins at risk? This depends on a few things, how many deer you have in your area, how hungry they are, and how easy it is for deer to access your pumpkin patch.

At our mountain farm, we have A LOT of deer. Seriously, our area is deemed a critical habitat for mule deer in Colorado. With that in mind, I’ve seen deer eat dahlias and super hungry deer eat tomatoes. I’ve also learned a few important ways to keep the deer out your garden. Today, we’re covering it all. Let’s get to it and keep those pumpkins safe!

Key Takeaways

• Deer have been known to eat pumpkins, especially the fruit itself
• That said, pumpkins aren’t a deer’s first choice
• If your deer pressure is high, you may need to install a deer fence

Why Do Deer Eat Pumpkins?

The bottom line is a hungry deer will eat just about anything. A deer with choices will generally choose other things. The deer in my area absolutely love sunflowers and will easily chow down an entire row of lettuces if left alone.

Deer are known to eat pumpkins, and the reason is due to their rich nutrient content and availability during the fall season. Pumpkins provide a great source of energy and essential nutrients like potassium, fatty acids, and vitamins A and E, which help deer survive the cold weather.

Although they might not be too keen on the hard outer skin, they love the soft interior and the pumpkin seeds. They can effortlessly use their antlers or hooves to crack open the pumpkins and easily feast on their contents.

When it comes to the pumpkin plant itself, deer will eat the vines, flowers, and leaves. Although they might not be particularly fond of the fuzzy stalks, they can still eat them if other food options are scarce. Deer have a strong preference for the flowers, as they consider them juicy and tender.

Preventing Deer from Eating Pumpkins

Livestock Guardian Dogs

We live in a very remote area with heavy deer, bear, and mountain lion presence. To keep our livestock, garden, and children safe we rely heavily on the protection of Colorado Mountain Dogs (a new breed of livestock guardian dog).

Our three Colorado Mountain Dogs do an excellent job protecting our chickens and goats (and kids!), and a good job keeping the garden safe. If they are around, they will always chase a deer out of the garden, but they are often busy out in the fields protecting animals. For that reason, we also rely heavily on a deer fence.

Effective Fencing Solutions

The Colorado State Extension states that the best way to keep deer out of the garden, is to install a fence. And after trying just about everything in an area with a lot of deer, I would agree.

If you really want to get serious about protecting your garden, you’re going to need a deer fence. And while there are plenty of cute-looking fences on the internet, you need to prioritize height and sturdiness.

Deer can jump incredibly high, so aim for a fence height of at least 8 feet. And if you have a lot of elk in your area, you’ll want a ten foot high fence.

Additionally, make sure the fence is secure at the base to prevent deer from pushing their way through. You may also opt for an electric fence if it is allowed in your area, which will serve as an added deterrent for deer.

I know some people recommend netting as an alternative, but I don’t prefer that. Yes, you can drape a net over your pumpkin patch, but in my experience it can accidentally snag snakes, rabbits, and other small critters. I hate accidentally harming a wild animal, so I stick to a fence in place of any netting.

Commercial Deer Repellents

Various commercial deer repellents are also available that can be applied to your pumpkin plants or the perimeter of your garden. These repellents often contain strong-smelling and bitter-tasting substances that deter deer from eating the plants while not harming them. These have varying degrees of effectiveness, but need to be reapplied often. We have an extremely large market garden (we sell at the local farmer’s market each summer), so spraying each plant is not feasible.

I also know people who have successfully used a motion-activated sprinkler system that gets triggered when deer approach your garden. The sudden burst of water is usually effective in scaring deer away and keeping them from venturing further into your pumpkin patch. Living off-grid we’re always looking for options that don’t require extra power, so this isn’t something we use.

FAQ: Do Deer Eat Pumpkins?

Do deer eat pumpkin leaves?

Yes, deer do consume pumpkin leaves. During the summer season, deer are attracted to the edible leaves of pumpkin plants as they provide a source of nutrients for them. However, do keep in mind that deer also eat other parts of the pumpkin plant, including the flowers and the fruit itself.

Are pumpkins beneficial for deer?

Pumpkins are indeed beneficial for deer as they are a nutritious food source filled with vitamins and minerals. While pumpkins are not commonly found in the wild, they can still form a healthy part of a deer’s diet, which mainly consists of fruits and vegetables.

What parts of a pumpkin do deer eat?

We’ve answered the question, do deer eat pumpkins? And now you might be wondering if a deer will eat the leaves and stalk of your pumpkin plant. As I stated above, a hungry deer will eat just about everything. But given a choice, deer prefer the pumpkin fruit and don’t tend to love the stalk and vines.

Do deer prefer pumpkin seeds or the flesh?

Deer have a preference for the guts of the pumpkin, which includes the seeds, rather than the shell or flesh. They love eating pumpkin seeds, and if you want to attract deer or feed them, you should break the pumpkin open to make the guts more accessible.

Will deer be attracted to carved pumpkins?

Yes, deer will be attracted to carved pumpkins. The exposed flesh and seeds inside the carved pumpkin can entice deer to come and have a little feast. If you want to protect your carved pumpkins from being eaten by deer, it is advisable to place them in a location that is not easily accessible to these animals.

What other animals commonly eat pumpkins?

Besides deer, there are several other animals that commonly eat pumpkins, including squirrels, rabbits, raccoons, and even birds like crows. These animals are attracted to the soft flesh, seeds, and other parts of the pumpkin as a source of nutrients.

The post Do Deer Eat Pumpkins? appeared first on Wild Mountain Homestead.

For the past five years we’ve lived in a very wild mountain location with A LOT of deer pressure (white tail deer to be specific). Despite that, we’ve been able to grow a bountiful garden each summer. The deer have been known to nibble on a dahlia occasionally, but for the most part the strategies I’m outlining below have kept us growing happily.

Let’s dive in and learn how to keep your tomatoes safe!

Understanding Deer Feeding Behavior

Deer are natural herbivores and will graze on a variety of crops, trees, grasses, vegetation, acorns, and nuts. They spend a significant portion of their day foraging for food, consuming up to 12 pounds of plant material per day.

While tomatoes and tomato plants are not their preferred food source, deer will still eat them if there are no tastier options available. Therefore, it is important to take proactive measures to protect your tomato plants from these hungry visitors.

Do Deer Eat Tomatoes and Tomato Plants?

The short answer is yes, deer can and will eat your tomatoes and tomato plants. However, tomatoes are not their top choice when it comes to foraging for food. If there are more enticing options available, such as lettuce, strawberries, and sweet corn, deer will likely prioritize those over your tomatoes. Nevertheless, it is crucial to implement protective strategies to safeguard your tomato plants and ensure a bountiful harvest.

Identifying Deer Damage to Tomato Plants

It is important to be able to identify deer damage to your tomato plants, as sometimes other animals like rabbits and mice can also cause similar damage. Here are some telltale signs that deer are responsible for the damage:

1. Large, rough bite marks on the stems of the plants.
2. Damage higher up on the plant, as deer are tall animals.
3. Uprooted plants, indicating forceful grazing by deer.
4. Trampled surrounding plants.
5. Hoof prints in the garden, especially if the soil is damp or soft.

By observing these signs, you can confirm whether deer are the culprits and take appropriate action to protect your tomato plants.

Are Tomato Plants Toxic to Deer?

While tomato plants are not inherently toxic to deer, the leaves and stems of tomato plants contain alkaloids such as solanine and tomatine, which can be toxic in large quantities (the same is true for tomatoes being safe for chickens!). However, the levels of these compounds in ripe tomatoes are relatively low and not likely to pose a significant health risk to deer. Nonetheless, it is still important to protect your tomato plants to ensure a healthy harvest and prevent deer from consuming excessive amounts of leaves and stems.

Other Plants That Deer Eat

Deer have a broad diet and will consume a variety of plants. While tomatoes may be on their menu, there are many other plants that deer find more appealing. Here are some examples of plants that deer commonly eat:

• Acorns
• Aspen
• Berry bushes
• Corn
• Goldenrod
• Honeysuckle
• Maple
• Poplar
• Sumac

These are just a few examples, and deer have been known to eat many other types of plants. Understanding their feeding preferences can help you make informed choices when planning your garden and selecting deer-resistant plants.

Strategies to Keep Deer From Eating Your Tomatoes

So, sure a deer won’t choose a tomato as it’s favorite food, but that doesn’t mean they can do some major damage. Here’s what we’ve found to be the most effective way to keep deer from eating your tomatoes.

1. Fencing

Installing a fence around your garden is one of the most effective ways to keep deer out. There are two main types of fencing to consider:

• Permanent Fencing: This type of fencing is more expensive and labor-intensive to install but provides a long-term solution. However, it may limit the expansion of your garden in the future.
• Temporary Fencing: Electric poultry netting is a popular choice for temporary fencing. This type of fencing allows you make garden changes easily. But I’ve found it’s difficult to find a temporary fence that is actually tall and robust enough keep deer out.

Remember that deer are excellent jumpers. You need a deer fence that is at least 6-7 feet tall. And if Elk are a problem in your area, then you should go upwards of 9 feet. Deer fencing is no doubt expensive, but it’s also very effective.

If you live somewhere with a lot of deer and are serious about gardening, you’re going to need a fence.

2. Livestock Guardian Dogs

It’s not surprising that our Colorado Mountain Dogs are responsible for protecting the chickens and goats, but a lot of people don’t realize a good livestock guardian dog is also an excellent deer repellent.

We fence our Colorado Mountain Dog puppies and adult dogs out of the garden as they tend to trample anything when on a mission to protect. But whenever we keep them near the garden, we know they will immediately bark and scare off any hungry deer.

Other Ways to Keep Deer from Eating Your Tomatoes

I haven’t used these specifically, but when I asked fellow gardeners how they deter deer, here are their responses.

3. Predator Eyes and Motion-Activated Sprinklers

Deer are natural prey to larger predators such as coyotes, cougars, bobcats, wolves, and bears. You can use this knowledge to your advantage by placing glowing predator eye deterrents in your garden. These eyes create the illusion of a predator presence and can help scare deer away.

Motion-activated sprinklers are an excellent deterrent for deer and other animals. These sprinklers are equipped with sensors that detect movement and spray water when triggered. The sudden burst of water startles deer and discourages them from entering your garden.

4. Companion Planting

Companion planting involves growing certain plants near your tomatoes that deer dislike. Some plants have strong scents or textures that deter deer. Consider planting the following deer-deterring plants near your tomatoes:

• Daffodils
• Foxglove
• Monkshood
• Poppies
• Sage
• Mint
• Garlic
• Lavender
• Roses
• Lamb’s ear

By incorporating these plants into your garden, you can create a natural barrier that deer are less likely to penetrate.

5. Deer-Repellent Sprays

Deer-repellent sprays can be an effective tool in deterring deer from your tomato plants. These sprays typically contain natural ingredients such as mint oil and garlic oil, which create strong odors that deer find unpleasant. Regularly applying these sprays to your tomato plants can help protect them from deer damage.

6. Ultrasonic Deer Repellents

Ultrasonic deer repellents emit high-frequency sounds that are unpleasant to deer but inaudible to humans. These devices can be placed in your garden to create a sonic barrier that deters deer from approaching your tomato plants. Keep in mind that if you have pets, they may also be able to hear the high-frequency sounds, so consider their presence when using ultrasonic repellents.

Conclusion

In conclusion, deer can indeed eat your tomatoes and tomato plants. However, with measures in place, you can enjoy a bountiful harvest of delicious tomatoes while keeping deer at bay.

Happy gardening!

The post Do Deer Eat Tomatoes? (& 5 Tips to Stop Them!) appeared first on Wild Mountain Homestead.

The Best Vegetables for Homestead Living

Before jumping in, it’s worth noting that your growing zone will play a part in the best vegetables. That said, I live at 8,000 feet elevation in zone 4b and have found a way to successfully grow most every vegetable. You simply may have to adjust your timing and methodology.

Let’s jump into the list of the best vegetables for homestead life.

Radishes

Radishes are an often underappreciated, yet prolific veggie. They grow quickly, can be direct seeded and require little care. We have found that radishes grow in just about any soil and can withstand periods of slight drought.

Snap Peas

Peas taste great and since they grow vertically, you can maximize your space by co-growing them with other vegetables.

Kale & Chard

Most people either love or hate hardy greens like Kale and Chard. Once you know how to cook them, I think you’ll become a fan.

Carrots

These classics are super tasty and relatively easy to grow. Direct seed according to your seed packet, water, and watch grow. Carrots do best in loose soil. For best success choose two varieties – one for quick-growing, fresh-eating and one for storage.

Beets

Beets are an absolute all-star. They grow quickly, can be direct-seeded, and you can eat the entire thing! That’s right, enjoy the root fresh, cooked, or pickled and don’t forget to use the greens, too. We enjoy them sauteed in a little butter and garlic.

Kohlrabi

Honestly, I didn’t know much about this veggie until my husband’s grandpa insisted we try some while visiting. It was crispy, fresh, and delicious uncooked with a little salt. We’ve found they grow well and store for several weeks.

Spinach & Lettuce Greens

If you’re looking for the quickest growing vegetables, it’s hard to beat spinach and lettuce greens. Simply spread the seeds over soil, cover lightly, and water. In just 20-24 days you’ll have a bunch of leafy deliciousness on your hands.

Cabbage

Cabbage store well and are super versatile. They do well being started and transplanted or direct-seeded.

Winter Squash & Pumpkins

The ultimate in winter storage, pumpkins and winter squash (acorn, spaghetti, etc.,) are a great addition to the homestead garden. The downside is they can take up a lot of room and take a long time to mature. So only plant these if you have the space and time to allow for it.

Tomatoes

Tomatoes are certainly tasty and can be prolific. That said, they take anywhere from 60-100 days to mature and can be a bit finicky. If you’re growing a high elevation vegetable garden you’ll need to cover them and choose varieties that mature quickly (hello cherry tomatoes!).

FAQ: The Best Vegetables for Homestead Living

Conclusion: Homestead Vegetables

As you can see there are a lot of choices when choosing the best vegetables for a homestead. Consider your zone, weather, soil, and water. Plant a mix of fast-growing and long-storing vegetables to maximize your harvest.

And if it all seems overwhelming, just start planting a few things. Throw out some seeds, water them regularly, and see what grows. The best way to see what thrives in your area is to start gardening now. We would’ve never thought we’d have so much success growing strawberries in Colorado, but they’ve become one of our favorite and most prolific garden plants.

So don’t overthink it. Seeds are cheap and experimentation is the best way to learn. Get out there and get growing.

The post The 13 Best Vegetables for Homestead Living appeared first on Wild Mountain Homestead.

I love seeing them, but I also don’t want them devouring my garden!

Are Dahlias Deer Resistant?

The short answer: Deer don’t generally eat dahlias. But I wouldn’t go so far as to say that dahlias are deer resistant. And here’s why.

After several years gardening in an area with heavy deer pressure, I will say that dahlias aren’t a first choice. But a hungry deer will munch on just about anything.

We have a large half acre garden. It’s filled with all sorts of veggies including lettuces, kale, beets, radishes, carrots, tomatoes, squash, herbs, and more. We also have a substantial flower garden that is filled with bee balm, snapdragons, sunflowers, zinnias, cosmos, and, of course, dahlias (my current fave is the Sweet Nathalie Dahlia!). We love this star of a flower arrangement and have been increasing our stock sprouting dahlia tubers, taking cuttings, and planting more every spring.

Normally our garden is protected by a tall fence (as you can see in this photo). But at the end of this season, a portion of the fence was knocked down. Pair that with our Colorado Mountain Dogs needing to be corralled (protecting the chickens) away from the garden, plus us being away from the homestead on a camping trip. And, well, the deer had a bit of a feast.

It seemed their top favorite flower is sunflowers, followed by amaranth and zinnia buds. They loved most every vegetable and, not surprisingly, really mowed down the lettuce and kale.

I can’t blame them, it is quite delicious.

It wasn’t until all these flowers and veggies had been eaten, that the deer finally turned towards the dahlias.

So while in my growing experience, dahlias are not a deer’s first choice. Once all the other yumminess has been devoured (or protected!), the deer will start eating dahlias.

But there is hope. Despite a snafu this season which lead to some snacking deer, we have found several ways to keep deer out of the garden.

How to Keep Deer from Eating Flowers

It’s true what they say, “the best defense is a good offense.” People are usually talking about sports when they use this phrase. But it’s also true for keeping deer from eating your dahlias.

A Tall Fence

First off, you’re going to need a good fence. Keep in mind that deer have an impressive ability to jump over and through just about anything.

Most people agree that your fence needs to be between 6 to 10 feet tall. We’ve certainly found that to be the case. I’d recommend at least 8 feet tall and a full 10 feet if you have elk in your area.

You can use a variety of materials for fencing. It mostly depends on your aesthetics and budget. Keep in mind that fencing in a large garden can get expensive. This budget-friendly option isn’t the most beautiful, but it works.

A Livestock Guardian Dog

Perhaps even more effective than a fence, is a trained livestock guardian dog.

On top of protecting our chickens, pigs, and children from predators, our two Colorado Mountain Dogs do an excellent job keeping the deer out of our garden.

They do this by patrolling the area and barking or chasing off any unwanted animals. This works great on our off-grid homestead. We don’t have neighbors nearby and without these dogs our livestock was being regularly attacked by bears and mountain lions.

That said, if you live in a more urban area an LGD might not be the right choice. In that case, just be sure that your fence is adequately tall and strong.

FAQ

Conclusion: You Don’t Have to Let Deer Eat Your Dahlias

To wrap it up, are dahlias completely deer resistant? No.

But that doesn’t mean you can’t grow them successfully. We live on 35 acres in a remote part of Colorado. Deer and elk are abundant. But with the proper fence, and help from our Colorado Mountain Dogs, we are successfully growing a field of dahlias.

If we can do it out here, at high-elevation, I have faith you can, too!

The post Are Dahlias Deer Resistant? (And How to Protect Your Flowers) appeared first on Wild Mountain Homestead.

Luckily, we’re also blessed with the consistent Colorado sun and 35 acres of our own to experiment on. After doing a bit of research I discovered there are strawberry varieties that are rated to zone 4/5. And while this doesn’t always mean they’ll survive the winter, we decided to give it a try anyways.

Choose Bareroot Strawberries

While we have successfully grown strawberries from seed and happily picked up starts at our local nursery (shoutout to Brady’s Garden Supply), the best way to get a substantial strawberry harvest is to plant bareroot plants.

I ordered from Nourse Farms and was very happy with the service and quality of plants.

For the best selection, plan to order in late winter and schedule your shipment to arrive in early spring.

You want to plant your bareroot plants when the soil has warmed to about 50 degrees F. The planting depth is very important and Nourse has some great resources, so read up before planting.

Strawberry Varieties Successfully Grown in Colorado

This isn’t an exhaustive list of the strawberries that grow in Colorado by any means. These are simply the three varieties we have grown. Keep in mind we’re located in zone 4 at 8,000 feet. We’re located near Westcliffe, Colorado, which may be different than the environment you live in.

AC Wendy

This is a top Early Season variety. It produces large berries that taste great and is viable for zones 3-8.

Cavendish

A large berry for zones 3-7. This strawberry has grown great in our high altitude garden. It produces a large, juicy berry.

Sparkle

This strawberry plant produces slightly smaller berries, but they are certainly delicious and worth growing. It’s viable in zones 3-8 and recommended for beginners.

We’ve loved all three of these varieties. We’re going to expand our berry patch next spring, so stay tuned for more Colorado strawberry farm news.

The post Growing Strawberries in Colorado appeared first on Wild Mountain Homestead.